Set the alarm for 7 but couldn't quite get out of bed. Eventually crept down to brekkie where we got the very nice staff to pack boiled eggs and baguettes for us. Coffee was all we could manage. Some kerfuffle about the route and where to get helmets before we could finally set off at 8.20am. The Golden Sands group are cycling up to My Son except Udo and Zoe, who are also on a motorbike. Julian and Cecilia opted not to get up.

The ride to My Son took one and a half hours with one wavering decision over how to get to Highway 1. The morning traffic was predictably harrowing until we got out of the towns; then it was a pleasant ride to My Son.

More angst about where to park the bike and the helmets but eventually we got to the ruins at about 10.30, when it was scorchingly hot. We sat in the shade of a crumbled stupa and inhaled our bread and boiled eggs. The Cham ruins are atmospheric but they were pretty well pounded to pieces by the americans during the war. A real shame. The cyclists caught up with us at Group B/C/D, the most well-preserved area of My Son. J went click click click while I went in search of diet Coke.

Wrapped up by about 1pm. The little pit stop where you catch the jeep had the most wonderful cau lao. I'm glad we weren't too hot to eat. Then the others headed back to Hoi An while J and I carried on in search of more adventure. Alas, without a road map it was impossible to go very far but even so, we were treated to idyllic scenes of bright green rice paddies under a wedgwood blue sky; women in conical hats and ao dai (honestly, it's a cliche but they really DO wear the gear!) and smiling waving farm people. One woman unlocked the Ho family shrine for us to visit, and we made a worthwhile detour to the river bank to watch some men at work unloading stones from a boat.

Turned back to Hoi An at about 4.20. The ride back took an hour -- good thing too, as my tight jeans made for uncomfortable riding. We collapsed into the pool until the mozzies drove us back to the room. Made plans to meet for dinner at Mango Rooms with the whole crew. It was fun, then ended up with a drink at a bar (the loudest one yet) with Julian, Cecilia, Trish and Frederick.